Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Rendezvous Kathmandu!

Finally! I made it to Nepal!

After disembarking the plane, I followed the stream of passengers across the tarmac toward the airport... Immediately I was struck by how warm it was. I knew that Kathmandu Valley's climate was subtropical, but I had still expected it to be a bit colder than it was. Sure, it wasn't warm like summer, but I was quite pleased to discover that the light sweatshirt I was wearing provided sufficient warmth and negated the need to put on the coat I was holding. It was certainly a nice respite from the cold weather that I left in the States...

Entering the Tribhuvan International Airport, I immediately proceeded to purchase my visa so that I could clear customs and retrieve my luggage... However, there was a bit of a snafu related to acquiring a visa... It was actually a pretty straightforward process, except for one thing... I didn't realize that I would need to pay cash for the visa (looking back, I should've known!). I therefore had to go to the money changer to cash a traveler's check. After receiving the balance (minus a fee) in Nepali rupees and returning to the visa clerk, I learned that he wanted the money in US dollars (otherwise I would have had to pay more). I therefore went back to the money changer to exchange some of the rupees for dollars (again having to pay a fee). Finally, after a chuckle, I was able to purchase the visa (for only US $30, including both fees -quite a bargain actually) and legally enter Nepal for the first time!

Greeting me on the other side of the doorway was my friend Junni (whose wedding I came to Nepal to attend), as well as her brother (Bishav) and aunt. It was great to finally see Junni in Nepal and I looked forward to meeting her family. However, first we had to run a quick errand and we stopped to purchase some dried fruit and nuts before heading back to her family's home...

Alleyway location of the dried fruit shop

When we arrived at the house, I was intrigued to learn that they lived in a single-family home in a gated community, reminiscent of one you might see in the Southwestern US (think Phoenix or San Diego)... Junni told me that her family had moved into this house only a few years before (their older house was more centrally located).

Entrance to the gated community

Most of the family were gathered up on the rooftop terrace when I arrived, so we proceeded through the house up the stairs (removing our shoes at the doorway of course)... It was great to meet Junni's parents and some of her extended family. I was actually so nervous that I totally forgot all of the Nepali phrases I had tried to learn on the long journey (chalk it up to jetlag I guess). Most everyone was gathered in a circle chatting and sorting various dried fruits, nuts, candies, and spices into carefully measured piles before putting the piles into individual ziplock bags. I came to learn that the mixtures of goodies, known as masala poka, were a traditional party favor (of sorts) that the bride's family traditionally gives to the members of the groom's family when they visited (more on that in a later post). Though the family members were concerned I was exhausted and kept asking if I would like to lay down, I was delighted to be able to help them sort and bag the congeries.

Sorted piles of masala poka

Later in the day, I helped place the masala poka bags into special red velvet bags emblazoned with the names of the new couple.

The finished products

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Approaching Kathmandu (काठमांडौ)

After departing Singapore, I was off to Kathmandu! However, by that time, the length of the journey had started to catch up with me. It was going to be a relatively quick 4-5 hour flight, but I was having trouble keeping my eyes open and started to nod off. After a period of time, I glanced out the window and snapped this photo:


I was able to guesstimate that the plane by that time was somewhere over Myanmar (Burma) or Bangladesh. Seeing the mountains caused me to become quite excited... I love mountains, but the main reason was because I was reminded that I might be able to catch a glimpse of the Himalayas as we flew closer to Nepal...

After nodding off again, I awoke and again glanced out the window. Unfortunately, there were clouds everywhere. The ground was barely visible through the dense clouds. Hoping that the sky would clear before we neared the Himalayas, I fell back to sleep... Awakening awhile later, I looked out the window and, to my dismay, the clouds had not only failed to thin but had actually become even more dense. Clouds were all that were visible for as far as the eye could see. Thick, impenetrable clouds that clothed the ground like a flocculent down blanket. Resigning to the fact that I may not be able to see the mountains under the current conditions, I slipped again into a light slumber...

Sensing the rustling of landing gears and feeling the declination of altitude, I realized that we were approaching Kathmandu. Suddenly completely alert, I looked down from my window and again looked at an opaque cloud layer. Quite disappointed, my gaze began to rise... higher, and higher, and higher once again, before my breath was taken away -what a surprise indeed! I could see them!! The Himalayan range was towering in front of me; obviously an immense distance away for sure, but there they were, proudly standing high above the clouds...


Looking at a map of Nepal prior to my trip, I had noted the central location of Kathmandu within the country. Since the Himalayan Mountain Range formed the northern border of Nepal with Tibet (西藏), I did not realize how evident the Himalayas would be throughout the country -a testament to the sheer immensity of the peaks.

Map of Nepal (from Lonely Planet)

As the plane descended towards the Kathmandu Tribhuvan Airport, the pilot announced that the visibility was low and he would therefore have to regain some altitude and circle Kathmandu Valley for awhile before attempting the approach again. Setting aside any fears in my mind related to the situation, I was delighted for the opportunity to view a more panoramic view of the valley while also gaining a closer look at the captivatingly magical Himalayas as we circled closer to them.

Aerial view of Kathmandu Valley


Singapore Segue

Imagine...

You just completed a 12-hour flight... the third (and longest) leg of your four-leg flight itinerary is now behind you... after spending 30 hours in transit so far (including flying time and a 7-hour layover in JFK), the last thing you would ever want is to have another layover -you just want to finally get there... but alas, you know you've got just one more... just one more layover, just one more city, and just one more flight before ultimately reaching your final destination... but now arriving at the airport you must pass through before reaching your journey's end, you exit the plane, walk through the jetway, and enter the transitory terminal to see...

The Orchid Garden in Singapore's Changi Airport, Terminal 2

Suddenly, spending a few-hours in layover isn't so bad!

One of my favorite things about flying in and out of Singapore is the time spent in Singapore's beautiful Changi Airport. Unlike many other airports in which layovers are a chore and the activities inside are more reminiscent of livestock herding than anything else, visiting the Changi Airport is more like visiting a resort. There are after all spa amenities, entertainment options, and beautiful gardens galore, all inside the confines of the airport's three terminals.

White Phalaenopsis orchids

In fact, the airport even has it's own orchid commemorating it's hospitality to weary travelers (Dendrobium x 'Changi Airport'):